Finishings And Trimmings Fashion Design

Box accordion pleat

Movement pleats in persp
flat pleats

1 i 1

A – Background pleat. BC – Strips of fabric which when folded opposite each other create a pleat behind. D – Depth of the pleat.

Accordion pleats

Pleats have the function of collecting the fabric around the body in modular geometrical patterns and are also used as trimming on a garment.

They are formed by one line of a fold, one of depth and one of support (A-B-C-D).

There are various types of pleats, and depending on their application, pleasing and variegated effects can be obtained.

They can be set at quite a distance, plissé, pressed or left loose, backstitched or with the inside made up of another fabric.

The best effect for pleats in dressmaking is that created by pleats which follow a straight line, because they follow the texture of the fabric.

A – Background pleat. BC – Strips of fabric which when folded opposite each other create a pleat behind. D – Depth of the pleat.

frills and flounces

Double frill, flounce with crest

Mirror flounce with box pleats and waistband, double flounce

Frills and flounces, like pleats, have the function of collecting the fabric in decorative motifs, conferring more femininity and sweetening the cut. They are motifs suitable for a romantic and sophisticated style.

Bias Cut Dresses

Gathers

Circular flounce

Drape

\ \ \ \ y / /1 The circular flounce is much used around the neck, over-

\ \ \ y / I laid with gentle fabrics it becomes very charming and

\ \–^y / Gathers underline the figure in a striking and decorative

N/V. —way. Technically they are small parallel crimps: it is better

^-to use an elasticated fabric to make them.

Draping is the form assumed by a fabric when it is draped upon the body. Due to its pliant nature, it caresses the figure providing a sensual accompaniment to the movements of the person who wears it in a choreography of seductive rhythms.

Open zip, with backstitching, covered, casual for coats, concealed and elegant

CUFF5 AND FASTENINGS

Elegant cuffs: Edged with frills, with cuff links, with layered fringes

Stitched cuffs: Rib stitched, stitched with cuff, stitchcd joining the sleeve, stitched turned back

Sketch Polo With Chinese Collar

Left to right: Basic, neckhole, fiat collar

Left to right: Mandarin, classic, classic 1970s shirt collars

CASUAL COLLARS

Left to right: Tailored, turtiencck, polo-neck

Left to right; 5hawl, V-shaped, high ribbed with buttons

Left to right: Polo style with triangular insert, high cross-wound, funnel-shaped

Left to right: Bomber, cross-wound, cardigan

Left to right: Lace-up, double cam-bcred, with hood

collars from basic perspectives

Three-quarters Profile

Flat collar

Classic collar

This schema is useful for drawing any kind of collar that you can think of.

By changing the height and width you will also be able to visualize the most unusual collars.

necklines and décolleté

Basic, tailored, on the shoulder, V-shaped, asymmetrical

Flat Sketch Asymmetrical Neckline

Basic, tailored, on the shoulder, V-shaped, asymmetrical

Square, square and singlet, rounded, on the shoulder with oval slit, heart-shaped

American-style, asymmetrical, balcony, square, plunge

V-shaped, overlapping, sophisticated, plunge

basic collar patterns

Kimono Fashion Flats

PATTERN SCHEMAS types of basic sleeves

Filled, broader fitting, fitted with crimping

Cara Menggambar Pola Lengan Raglan

T-shapcd, puff sleeve with cuff, Raglan

Hammer, flared Raglan, kimono skirt dimensions

Technical diagrams for obtaining pleats and flares.

Basic skirt:

1 – Flared

2 – 1/4 bias-cut circular

3 – 1/3 bias-cut circular

4 – Full bias-cut circular

Fashion Design Flat Drawing Skirt

A – Basic miniskirt B – Knee length C-Midi D – Full-length

basic and sophisticated skirts

Pleats Flat Sketch Illustrator

Close-fitting, straight, wrapover, flared, wrapover with yolk and pleats

Half bias-cut circular, puff, puff with fitted hem, plisse pleats

Asymmetrical Hemline Flat Drawing

Tiered frills, tiered flounces, asymmetrical with flounces, straight with large pleat and accordion pleat

Half bias-cut circular with yolk, full bias-cut circular with yolk, full bias-cut circular with waist crimping, flared with inserts

Various Fashion Poses

Simple and elegant poses underline the cut and the details of the pattern.

types of trousers

Tlicks asid pleat, jodhpurs, pantaloons

Hipsters, bell-bottom, Oriental

the basic bodice and tucks

Seamstress Dummy

Above is seen a dressmaker’s dummy from the four basic perspectives.

To mould the bodice or the costume around the body it is necessary to use tucks which reduce the fabric where it is at its roomiest and where the body is rounded, underlining the shape.

The first figure shows the basic bodice with the application of rotated tucks, both on the upper body and the pelvis. To bring an item of clothing closer to the body, more tucks which slope down from the top as far as the flank and from the shoulder-blade to the flank can be used. The tucks can be visible as in the basic version, inserted in the lengths of material or absorbed in the looseness of the design to confer more softness and linearity on the item of clothing.

TUCKS IN THE BODICE

Fashion Designing Pictures

SHIRTS WITH TUCKS

Large shirt, Mandarin, romantic

SUMMER SHIRTS AND GILETS WITH TUCKS

Models wearing the designs on previous pages. The poses are simple and suitable for the interpretation of the pattern

Creases have been kept to a minimum and the outlines of the pattern are emphasized in the drawing.

Fashion Outlines Manga

BASIC AND SOPHISTICATED DRESSES

Character Fashion Design

LIGHT COATS

JACKETS

Tiered Denim Illustrator Flat

Bomber, denim backstitched

denim casual jacket. The simple and neat drawing style emphasizes the cut and the backstitches.

CASUAL JACKETS

Bomber

Bomber, denim backstitched

Casual with zips

The model assumes a decisive and youthful pose like the fashion that she is modelling. The arms spread wide emphasize the fitted sleeves and [he fullness of the denim casual jacket. The simple and neat drawing style emphasizes the cut and the backstitches.

RAINCOATS

How Drawing Fashion Jacket

Casual with zipi

Sketching Casual Skirts Parallel

The model assumes i and youthful pose like that she is modelling. Ti spread wide emphasize L sleeves and the fullness ot

The model on the opposite page is moving to stress the fullness of the cape, which is also accentuated by the raised arm.

capes

Cape Flat Drawing Fashion Illustration

Double-breasted with lapels Flared with partial doubling

Close-fitting jackets with variations in cuts, finishing and trim mings.

Casual lighL coats and jackets sharing the same basic form, but varied in cuts and finishing and trimmings.

Plain coat with padded shoulders, coat with zip and hood, coat with casing

Padded bomber jacket, quilted coat, quilted bomber jacket

7/Sths length coat, coat with double fastening and variation in pockets, coat with zip and double pockets and inside pocket

FOOTWEAR VARIOUS STYLES AND FASHIONS

It is important to personalize a fashion plate with accessories which are suitable to identify a style or to play down an image that is too serious.

In these pages you will find many examples of footwear of various types which are suitable for the most varied fashions. The footwear is shown from a variety of perspectives.

I ll

Fashion plates are the primary means of visualising ideas and concepts in costume and fashion design. To give an accurate impression of what is in a designer’s mind it is vital to have complete mastery of the rules of figure drawing. Here, realism and anatomical precision are the chief values, whereas for costume and fashion, stylization and exaggeration are ways of adding individuality and verve to a plate, and of focusing attention on specific elements.

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